Above Sheki is a palace, which also caught UNESCO's eye and, along with the city's historic centre, was inscribed on  the heritage list in 2019. This is the Palace of the Khans which sits at just under 750 metres above sea level on the edge of a mountain range that rises to the highest peak in Europe (5,641 Mt Elbrus). From this lofty position the rulers of this area could look out over the city and far beyond, but, despite loving a good view, my attention was drawn to the ornate wood and tiled building that was constructed in 1790 and features dozens of elaborate stained glass windows. 
 

Around the corner from this magnificent edifice is another slice of history; the church of Kiş. Those familiar with religious architecture in the Caucasus will recognise the church's round tower and conical roof. It was built in the 12th century and sits alongside the increasingly popular Transcaucasian Trail; a hiking route that spans 3000km across Azerbaijan, Georgia and Armenia.

One of the many reasons to visit Sheki is the opportunity to hike a section of this trail. From the church it wends through Kiş and up into a forest. It then keeps going up, and up. When I visited I used the excuse of first a passing thunder storm and then a passing farmer and his donkey to step off the path and rest. After gaining over 1,000 metres in height I emerged on a grassy plateau covered in multitudinous flowers. Here crocuses grow, their stigma and styles carefully plucked and dried to become delicious saffron.
 

From this plateau I could see mountains of well over 4,000 metres, forming the border between Azerbaijan and Russia. I was keen to continue on to the next village, Baş Göynük, where I hoped there'd be a minibus back to Sheki. But the trail disappeared in a forest and my GPS got lost among the high hill tops. I decided to return the way I'd come and enjoy the view from this other direction.

Apart from the farmer (and his donkey) I didn't pass a single other soul during the many hours I'd spent along that trail. I felt as rich as khan in his palace having all those incredible mountain views to myself. 
 

Back in Sheki I feasted on a local dish called piti (a stew of chestnuts, chickpeas, tomatoes, potatoes and mutton, infused with saffron and topped with tail fat), served in the ceramic pot in which it was cooked. This rich dinner was then followed by another local specialty: Sheki halva, which consists of rice flour, syrup, hazelnuts, coriander seeds, cardamom, and, you guessed it, saffron.
 

Days of hiking and palaces, nights of saffron-infused meals and historic accommodation. A quiet place, a fascinating place, a place that's just 5 hours by minibus from Baku.